The small town of Port St Johns, nestled in the sub-tropical bush on the land between the might Mzimvubu River (locals call it by the same name), the sea and two mighty sandstone cliffs is possibly one of the prettiest places in South Africa. The road into town leads you past two two great cliffs, called The Gates of St John is spectacular. On the right (western bank), there is the 378-metre-high Mount Thesiger and on the left, Mount Sullivan. Today, it’s a bustling little town and a favourite destination of anglers, backpackers and in recent years, even film crews who shoot their movies in the spectacular surrounds of the area.

Way back when:
According to TV Bulpin’s Discovering South Africa, Port St Johns takes its name from the saint, but the reason for this is obscure. The name does not appear on any of the early Portuguese maps although in 1552 one of their galleons, the Saint John was wrecked 89 km north of Port St Johns at the mouth of the Mtamvuna River. The popular theory is that the site of the disaster was mistakenly thought in later years to have happened at the mouth of the Mzimvubu River and the name applied accordingly. Another theory is that the buttress of Mount Sullivan (on the left bank) resembles the full-length figure of a man, robed and hooded in the same way as the apostles are depicted in biblical paintings. This likeness may be viewed from the right bank on the site of the original harbor works of Port t Johns.

GPS co-ordinates: S31.6225 E29.54645

How to get there from East London:
Take the N2 north towards Mthatha – a distance of approximately 220km. Follow the route markers to the R61 to Libode and PSJ through Mthatha. (in the city centre there’s a right turn that is often missed). Drive along the R61 for 91km with the road leading directly into PSJ.

Paid and stayed:
Ikaya in Second Beach. Rustic spot used by surfers and anglers alike. It’s self-catering so bring your own food. R140 pp/pd. There are a myriad of other excellent B&Bs like the Outspan Inn (run by the unstoppable John Costello) and Cremorne Estates. If you prefer more upmarket, try the Lily Lodge or if you are more adventurous, Amapondo backpackers on the road to Second Beach.

Meal of the day:
Jules Leslie’s Delicious Monster serves fantastic food with great views of Second Beach.
Thea Lombard’s Wild Coast Kitchen provides for an upmarket eating experience.

Locals only:
Beware when climbing down to see the blowhole at Second Beach and watch out, the rocks are extremely slippery. Several people have lost their lives at this spot. Also, like anywhere else, there is crime in the town, so keep your wallet out of sight.

Must do:
Take a day to chill around Port St Johns and meet all it’s weird and interesting characters. Ask for people like Ben Dekker, Lily O’Mahony and Danny Wheelspanner. Have a beer at the Millenium Bar (instructions how to get there can be gleaned from locals). Cast a fishing line off the rocks along the coastline. Hang with the backpackers at Amapondo. Take a drive up to the disused airfield at the top of Mount Thesiger – the view from there is breath taking (try a champagne breakfast, but beware against falling off the cliff). Go for surfing lessons at Mike Gattke’s surf school at Second Beach or just take a tour around Port St Johns. Feel the healing power of the mud at Isinuku outside town.
Or take the ferry across the mighty Mzimvubu River to Agate Terrace and take a walk to Poenskop, 11km to the north to go fishing.

Click on the video clips below to view

Second Beach at Port St Johns

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