Situated in Pondoland - arguably one of the most beautiful areas of the Eastern Cape, Mbotyi (the place of beans) is a lush river estuary concentrated around the upmarket Mbotyi Lodge, managed among others by former Eastern Cape cricket legend Peter Kirsten and his wife Tuffy. It is without doubt one of the finest fishing areas along the Wild Coast and a must for the more upmarket traveler seeking “to get away from it all.”

Twenty kilometers up the coast as the crow flies lie the small twin hamlets of Port Grosvenor and Lwambasi (Lambazi) Bay. With no telephone or cellphone reception, there’s not much to do here apart from relaxing, swimming, fishing or exploring the history of two shipwrecks that lie in the area. The BBC China ran aground here in 2004, but the most famous wreck, is that of the Grosvenor , which ran aground there in on 4 August 1782.

Way back when:
The Mbotyi Trading Store site was created in 1922 by deed of grant and the first owners were Jack Barber and Johannes Victor Kottich. Kottich was a recluse who lived in a tiny shack overlooking the sea. He was reputedly a morphine user who secured a regular supply of drugs by establishing a fictitious pharmacy in Lusikisiki. He was also supposed to have made contact with German U-boats during WWII. Barber was the Robinson Crusoe of Mbotyi. After being wounded in WWI he met the love of his life, Sally Barnes who was a nurse in a military hospital in France. After he proposed to Barnes, Barber arranged for her to travel by ship from Boston to Mbotyi and he calculated when the ship would pass, making a huge bonfire. Barnes arrived by oxwagon and after landing got involved in the community, nursing the sick and the infirm. After Barnes died, Barber died in a cottage blaze and it is suspected that he committed suicide.

In later years, famous bank robber Andre Stander, while fleeing the police, came to stay in a rondavel at Mboty. He pretended to be an American until he was recognised and disappeared shortly before he fled to Fort Lauderdale in the United States where he was shot dead.

Further up the coast lies Port Grosvenor, scene of the wreck of the Grosvenor, which ran aground in 1782 and was reputedly laden with treasure. Over many years, salvors have tried to claim the alleged treasures of the Grosvenor, but very little was found in the end. The story of the survivors of the Grosvenor is an epic one.

GPS co-ordinates:
Mbotyi: S31.46474 E029.73234
Port Grosvenor: S31.37261 E029.91323
Lwambasi Bay: S31.37636 E029.90433

How to get there from East London:

Mbotyi: Drive along the N2 towards Mthatha. Distance is approximately 220km. Take the R61 towards Port St Johns (the intersection between Madeira and Sutherland Streets in Mthatha) and drive for 87 kilometres until hitting the R61 turn-off to Lusikisiki. Turn left and drive for 31km just before Lusikisiki. Turn right on a concrete road. Drive for 5.9km until you see the road that leads off to the Magwa Tea Estate. Turn right. Continue down this road for 15.4 km until you reach Mbotyi.

Lwambasi (Lambasi Bay): Follow the same route from East London to Mthatha and towards Lusikisiki. Turn right on the concrete road just before you enter town. Travel along the concrete road until it becomes a gravel road and keep straight. There is a split in the road – keep to the right. After 25 kilometres turn right at three white rocks. Drive for 5km until you reach Lambasi Bay.

The road there:
It is easy to get lost in the Transkei and never drive after dark. The road to Mbotyi is gravel but in good condition, while the road to Lambasi Bay is poor and should only be attempted with a bakkie or 4×4.

Paid and stayed:
Wild Coast Inn at Lambasi Bay. A rondavel camp, the Wild Coast Inn offers comfortable but fairly basic accommodation. Look at for the “two Joes” – Joe Chikafa and Joseph Sinqina. You will not receive a better welcome from these two guys.

Must eat:
Mbotyi Lodge serves an excellent lunch, or just relax in their bar which offers a fine selection of wines and spirits.

Locals only:
The best thing about this area is its spectacular waterfalls. A visit to the Magwa Falls is a must, but there are other falls to visit as well. Be extremely careful as the edge of the 150-metre waterfall is unguarded and slippery. Both Mbotyi and Lwambasi offers fantastic hikes, mountain biking and all-round relaxation. For those interested in the industry, take a tour of the nearby Magwa Tea plantation. Or just take a 4×4 drive with the staff at Mbotyi.

Must do:
Visit the falls around Mbotyi. As the staff to take you to the spot where you can see the “Waterfall with no name”. It’s one of the most romantic spots along the Wild Coast and an ideal place to pop the big question. If he is there, having South African cricket legend Peter Kirsten accompany you is an absolute blast.

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Magwa Falls near Mbotyi	Talking about tea

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The small town of Port St Johns, nestled in the sub-tropical bush on the land between the might Mzimvubu River (locals call it by the same name), the sea and two mighty sandstone cliffs is possibly one of the prettiest places in South Africa. The road into town leads you past two two great cliffs, called The Gates of St John is spectacular. On the right (western bank), there is the 378-metre-high Mount Thesiger and on the left, Mount Sullivan. Today, it’s a bustling little town and a favourite destination of anglers, backpackers and in recent years, even film crews who shoot their movies in the spectacular surrounds of the area.

Way back when:
According to TV Bulpin’s Discovering South Africa, Port St Johns takes its name from the saint, but the reason for this is obscure. The name does not appear on any of the early Portuguese maps although in 1552 one of their galleons, the Saint John was wrecked 89 km north of Port St Johns at the mouth of the Mtamvuna River. The popular theory is that the site of the disaster was mistakenly thought in later years to have happened at the mouth of the Mzimvubu River and the name applied accordingly. Another theory is that the buttress of Mount Sullivan (on the left bank) resembles the full-length figure of a man, robed and hooded in the same way as the apostles are depicted in biblical paintings. This likeness may be viewed from the right bank on the site of the original harbor works of Port t Johns.

GPS co-ordinates: S31.6225 E29.54645

How to get there from East London:
Take the N2 north towards Mthatha – a distance of approximately 220km. Follow the route markers to the R61 to Libode and PSJ through Mthatha. (in the city centre there’s a right turn that is often missed). Drive along the R61 for 91km with the road leading directly into PSJ.

Paid and stayed:
Ikaya in Second Beach. Rustic spot used by surfers and anglers alike. It’s self-catering so bring your own food. R140 pp/pd. There are a myriad of other excellent B&Bs like the Outspan Inn (run by the unstoppable John Costello) and Cremorne Estates. If you prefer more upmarket, try the Lily Lodge or if you are more adventurous, Amapondo backpackers on the road to Second Beach.

Meal of the day:
Jules Leslie’s Delicious Monster serves fantastic food with great views of Second Beach.
Thea Lombard’s Wild Coast Kitchen provides for an upmarket eating experience.

Locals only:
Beware when climbing down to see the blowhole at Second Beach and watch out, the rocks are extremely slippery. Several people have lost their lives at this spot. Also, like anywhere else, there is crime in the town, so keep your wallet out of sight.

Must do:
Take a day to chill around Port St Johns and meet all it’s weird and interesting characters. Ask for people like Ben Dekker, Lily O’Mahony and Danny Wheelspanner. Have a beer at the Millenium Bar (instructions how to get there can be gleaned from locals). Cast a fishing line off the rocks along the coastline. Hang with the backpackers at Amapondo. Take a drive up to the disused airfield at the top of Mount Thesiger – the view from there is breath taking (try a champagne breakfast, but beware against falling off the cliff). Go for surfing lessons at Mike Gattke’s surf school at Second Beach or just take a tour around Port St Johns. Feel the healing power of the mud at Isinuku outside town.
Or take the ferry across the mighty Mzimvubu River to Agate Terrace and take a walk to Poenskop, 11km to the north to go fishing.

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Second Beach at Port St Johns

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Seen in many regards as the Wild Coast’s “second town” Coffee Bay today is bustling with visitors from all over - especially young travelers and backpackers who come to take in the ambiance of the place and mix with some interesting locals.

Accommodation choices are somewhat limited between the choice of one hotel - the upmarket Ocean View, rondavels or backpackers for the more adventurous.

Way back when:
It’s not quite known where Coffee Bay got its name from, but according to TV Bulpin’s Discovering South Africa, the name comes from a ship that was wrecked there in 1863, depositing its entire cargo of coffee beans on the beach. Some beans are said to have taken root. For several years they tried to grow there, but eventually gave up. Three small rivers, the Nenga, (river of the whale), Bomvu (red) and Maphuzi (place of pumpkins) reach the sea in the area of Coffee Bay. Local residents also refer to it as Tshontini, the name applied to a dense wood there.
Hole-In-The-Wall was named so by Captain Vidal of the Barracouta, who surveyed the coast, in 1823.

GPS coordinates: S31.98705 E29.147386

How to get there from East London:
Take the N2 to Mthatha and drive for approximately 170km until you reach the Viedgesville turn-off. Turn right. Continue down this road for 75 kilometres until you hit Coffee Bay.

The road there:
The road to Coffee Bay is tarred, but watch out for potholes as well as the frequent stray animal.

Paid and stayed:
The Anchorage Hotel near Mthatha Mouth. Good hospitality and clean sheets, but very average in terms of accommodation.

Must eat:
Raptor’s View between Coffee Bay and Hole-in-the-Wall. Owned by Transkei legend Spud Murray, Raptor’s View serves up fine home-style cooking and the best view to enjoy your food. Murray’s wife Dee makes a particularly good burger with locally-baked bread and home-made patties.

Tourist friendly rating: 3/5

Locals only:
Take a walk on the splendid beach at Coffee Bay or a drive out to Hole-in-the-Wall. Meet the interesting characters hanging around in Coffee Bay including carpenter Mike Conig, Italian clothing designer Fabiano Viero and Phil Voster.
A must see is the mussel rehabilitation porgramme run by Hole-in-the Wall local Jeff Brown and the surrounding community.

Must do:
Stay at one of Coffee Bay’s backpackers and hang with the locals. Meet former East London surfer extraordinaire Dave Malherbe and his partner Belinda, who runs the place and perhaps glean some local surfing knowledge from Dave. Go to Raptor’s View to meet Spud Murray.

Bulungula is without a doubt one of the most scenic spots along the Wild Coast - if you can get there. Perched at land’s end where the Bulungula River flows into the ocean it’s the ultimate getaway for those wanting to experience the traditional Xhosa or backpacker lifestyle.

How to get there from East London:
Bulungula is remote and can only be reached by 4X4. However, arrangements can be made with the lodge for a 4X4 shuttle to to come and fetch visitors and this is highly recommended.
From East London: Drive on the N2 towards Mthatha for approximately 170 kilometres. At Viedgesville, take the Coffee Bay turn off and drive for 38 kilometres until you get to the Nocollege turn-off. Look out for the big Omo sign. The Lutubeni Mission is situated at this junction as well. Turn right onto a dirt road and drive for 12 kilometres. Turn left. Drive for 8 kilometres until you reach the Embekweni Store. If lost, ask locals for “Tafalehashe”.
At the store turn right and then almost immediately right again. From there Bulungula should be sign-posted. There is a spot to safely park vehicles but if you have a 4×4, you can proceed down an almost non-existent road towards Bulungula.

GPS co-ordinates: S32.14034 E029.00972

Way back when:
In days gone past, Bulungula was know as an area which harboured all sorts of unsavoury elements. This all changed in 2004 when when IT programmer Dave Martin arrived with the idea of establishing a backpackers - with the local community as co-owners.

He spoke to the headman in the area, who then spoke to the chief and permission was granted. “As far as I know this now the only lodge to have been approved by the Department of Land Affairs on the Wild Coast since democracy in 1994,” Martin says.
Using an old illegal cottage as a base, Martin and the community built a central area with kitchen, showers, toilets and there are 10 huts available to sleep in.

Paid and stayed:
For three people including dinner and breakfast the team paid R800. Acommodation is basic but comfortable with beds in traditional huts. Do not expect any luxuries.

Tourist friendly rating: 4/5 for hospitality 2/5 for accessibility.

Must eat:
Bulungula serves fantastic meals with freshly-cooked produce. For the more adventurous there is a trip to the local village where traditional Xhosa meals are being served.

Locals only:
Bulungula offers a unique experience of interaction with the local community as they are part-owners of the lodge. They also run all the activities in Bulungula, so just ask anybody.

Must do:
Firstly, try and locate the lodge’s “secret bath”, situated somewhere in the sand dunes. Go fishing with “Mr Z”, who will ensure that your line is cast in the right place to pull the “big one.” Ride horses along the beach, buy some locally-made crafts or just chill out.
Bulungula is a very interactive backpackers. Just take a walk to the local village and you are guaranteed to find something to do.

Also, ask Dave Martin, a raconteur of note, to tell the story of how the Masai warrior pitched up at the memorial service of the triathlete who drowned while swimming a few years ago.

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Bulungula view - inside and out	Bulungula bathroom facilities	The tough road there

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After crossing the ferry at Kei Mouth, Trennerys is some 27 kilometres to the north along the scenic Wild Coast. Not much goes on in Trennerys, and most of the life is focused around the Trennerys Hotel, a grand old lady along the coast, with a history that stretches back to the 1920s. It’s a great spot for day and longer visitors with a fantastic beach flanked by the very beautiful Qolorha River on the one side and the sea on the other. Quiet during the week, the hotel really comes alive over the weekend with day visitors and overnighters alike staying there.

Way back when:
Trennerys really got off the ground after Colonel Edward Gordon, a British Boer War and World War One hero settled here.

Col Gordon came out to South Africa in 1926 and while staying at a hotel in Port St Johns, he heard about a small community on the banks of the Qolorha River. He settled in the area in 1928 and with the help of a “Mrs Trennery” he founded the little hamlet and named it after his helper

GPS coordinates: S 32.63509 E 028.42669

How to get there from East London:
Take the N2 to Mthatha. Take the Kei Mouth, Haga-Haga turn off and continue to Kei Mouth. Once in Kei Mouth, take the turn-off to the Great Kei River. Travel across the ferry up the road for 11km until you get to the Trennery’s turn-off. Travel down this road for six kilometers and the Trennery’s Hotel turn-off is to your right.

The road there:
After crossing the ferry into the southern Transkei region, the road to Trennery’s is remarkably good except for the last bit going into the hotel itself.

Paid and stayed:
Although Trennery’s offers some comfortable accommodation, the team moved on and slept at the luxurious 3-star hotel in Mazeppa Bay.

Must eat:
The Trennery’s Hotel is the place for a quick lunch or a more luxurious seafood extravaganza over the weekend, serving prawns and other well-prepared ocean delicacies.

Tourist-friendly rating: 4/5

Locals only:
Things get very noisy over Sundays when weekend warriors in their 4×4s and off-road bikes rumble through the area without so much as paying a thought to local residents - if you like to travel thrrough this area, remember - being considerate costs nothing.

Must do:
Take a tour with local resident and Trennery’s guru Trevor Wiggley and his flora expert Siphiwo Nkonki, who knows the area like the back of his hand. Go for a swim or just hang out on the sun deck at the Trennery’s Hotel.

When on tour with Trevor, the spectacular water world called The Gates is a must visit. For those ones brave at heart, there is a 5-metre jump off a cliff edge at The Gates.

Trennery’s is a kid-friendly place, with a fantastic entertainment area even for teenagers at the hotel’s aptly named “Wreck-ration room” including video games and ever popular entertainers like table-tennis.

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Ferry crossing at Kei Mouth	Cliff jumping near Trennerys	Boat trip to the gates	Treeman from Trevors Trails

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Featured spot: Mooiplaas, Haga-Haga, Kei Mouth

Situated up along the coastline are the small hamlets of Morgan’s Bay, Haga-Haga and Kei Mouth. All three places are certainly worth a visit.

How to get there from East London:
To Mooiplaas: Take the N2 to Mthatha. Take the Kei Mouth/Haga-Haga turn-off on the R349. The Mooiplaas turn-off is the first to the right, followed by the Haga-Haga turn-off. Both roads are gravel and has some bad patches. The road to Kei Mouth is one of the most beautiful stretches of tar the Dispatch@venture team has encountered so far.

GPS positions:
Mama Tofu at Mooiplaas: S32′44.430 E028′03.543
Kei Mouth: S32′41.007 E028′22.775

Way back when:
Kei Mouth was established around 1864, when the British government wanted a barrier between the Cape and the amaXhosa on the border along the Kei River. In 1847, they allowed the first white settlers to stay in the area following the bitter 8th Border War. The first settler there was a an outlaw called Nicolaas “Klaas” Loggenburg in 1809.

Paid and stayed:
Naturel Guesthouse and Restaurant is one of the most interesting places in Kei Mouth. Run by Jurine Loftie-Eaton, it is a brick-a-brac of antique goodies, home-made preserves and interesting artifacts. However, make sure you bring your own towels and soap and with the television broken, the Dispatch@venture team went to bed early.

Must eat:
Pub lunch at the Haga-Haga Hotel. Renowned for their seafood, a pub lunch at the hotel was just what the hungry and thirsty travelers needed . Steaks, a burger and even a curry went down an absolute treat. Service was prompt and a weekend stay at the family hotel is highly recommended.

The Bush Pig bar and restaurant in Kei Mouth comes highly recommended, but are not open on Monday nights in the off season. The Bush Pig is at the heart of night-time entertainment and having a jol, while the Green Lantern offers a quieter experience.

Tourist-friendly rating: 4/5

Locals only:
Kei Mouth is one of the spots along the Wild Coast with the lowest crime rates around. Another unknown fact is that it has three lookout platforms to be located near the Bush Pig bar and indicated with a white footprint. If lost, just ask one of the friendly locals.

Must do:
Visit Mama Tofu at Mooiplaas, one of the most amazing characters you’ll ever get to meet - at 88 she still is a dynamo, driving tourism in her community. Take a walk up the lookout platforms at Kei Mouth. Spend some time at Jurine Loftie-Eaton’s amazing shop filled with candy sticks and all sorts of interesting brick-a-brack.

A definite must is visiting Bryan Church at the Strandloper trail. This amazing five-day walk from Kei Mouth to Gonubie near East London is a must for any hiker worth their salt. Church will also show you what is believed to be some of the largest indoor termite mounds in the world, situated at the old Cape Morgan Titanium Mine, now home of the Strandloper trail.

Play a round of golf at the Kei Mouth “Blue Flag” nine-hole course.

Cross the ferry into the former Transkei area.

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Mama Tofu Dancers	Mama Tofu visitor from USA	Haga Haga big surf	Worlds biggest termite mound

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