The motorcycle diaries
29 September 2008
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16 Comments
First, there was Crocodile Dundee. Then there was Chuck Norris. And now, due to huge demand from his many fans, he’s back. Ladies and gentlemen, we give you… David “Gwava” Macgregor!
After completing the very first Dispatch@venture trip in early September, we sent him back to the Transkei to go and cover the spots the first team couldn’t get to. Here, David describes some more madcap adventures in Port St Johns, before moving down the coast on his trusty 25-year-old XT 600 Teneré - one of biking’s most enduring off-road icons.
One thing I learnt fast about Kei bush bikers – they don’t discriminate.
After a fun two hours along the river, through the Majola Tea Estate and long abandoned homesteads, the next two became a nightmare as we drove hell for leather along roads so rocky the bike started falling apart.
More dirt bike out riding than highflying super cross flick flacks, the ride was so punishing, even a veteran Port St Johns local got down and dirty with his shiny new BMW - on the gravel.
Being an old Kei cowboy, with only his ego bruised, the spilled rider picked himself and his wheels up from the dirt, dusted off and bent a few parts straight with a Leatherman – before carrying on.
Scratches and all, cowboys don’t cry… I know I would have if my dream machine got “pranged.”
Guided by Amampondo XT nut Tim Whittaker, the six riders from Natal, Port Alfred and PSJ all had some tricky moments on the inaugural XT Tenere Rally.
Port Shepstone rider Thomas Schmerberg – who buys and sells Tenere’s – said the idea of the rally was to celebrate a bike that changed off road riding forever.
Solid, reliable and easy to maintain, the XT Tenere set a new standard when it was first unveiled to the public 25 years ago.
From the get go it kicked butt on endurance races like the Paris/Dakar Rally and even on our epic offroad jaunt my antique handled like a star.
The Rally will become an annual event.
About appreciating nature and not boozing and showing off, this was a rally with a difference.
Tim often stopped to admire scenery and riding with John Costello was a real treat as he answered all questions we had about abandoned homesteads (faction fighting), the roads system and rural life.
It was like a serious history tour through a nature reserve with the best guides around – awesome.
Funeral processions, weddings, excited kids, startled old timers – we saw them all, getting on with life in a beautiful but harsh and rugged life.
Tim even picked up one grey old man and helped him up a mountainous slope we were travelling.
Just shows you’re never too old to become a biker.
Open to taking groups of bikers off the beaten track, we did not need a map riding with Tim.
Almost wearing Cuan like a backpack - as he started nodding off after three hours - we almost crashed a few times on some tight and tricky corners.
Cresting blind ridges and tight corners became a bit like a game of Russian Roulette – trying to work out what you could not see, before you hit it.
Cows, dongas, thick gravel, rocks, trees and stupid sheep that always play follow my leader – often right across your line - if we plugged a few, at least we would have supper.
By the time we hit Libode my ass was so numb and my elbows were almost scraping on the gravel from the half comatose passenger lying on my back.
After earning serious praise from the other riders for taking a passenger – when they were solo cruising - I had to bail 150 kms into the ride – and drive 60 clicks back to Port St Johns on the tarred road.
Back at the pub, butt cooling in an ice bucket, I could only imagine the scare a bunch of beer-boeped Harley Davidson riders must have had when the rest of my ragtag mob buzzed them on the tarred road outside PSJ.
Explaining how they were “riding in formation” on gleaming bikes and shiny leathers, the dozen or so HOG (Harley Owners Group) bikers must have looked as out of place as a pork chop at a barmitzvah as they chugged through the Kei.
Overtaking them, the dust from the clothes and bikes of the Tenere’
gang gave the road HOG’s a proper Kei look.
I wish I had been there to see the look in there I as I overtook with my spaghetti limbed passenger bouncing around behind me.
“Coming up behind them, it looked like they had a car wheel stuck between their butt cheeks,” Thomas explained to howls of laughter.
Sitting so low to the road, I could imagine the scene.
Set on taking Cuan with me on the road trip, the ride was the perfect test whether he could make the long haul back to Slummies – off the beaten track.
He passed with flying colours.
Brrrrrrrrm, brrrrrrm….all revved up for the rest of the ride, I guess now is a good time to start the Dispatch@venture Motorcycle Diaries - by chilling in Port St John’s, Part III.
(12 votes, average: 4.25 out of 5)
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Nice to have you back on line Gwava, and with a’cherry Gwava’ in tow!!
not many would be brave enough to travel on a 25year old bike with an active 11year old son on the pillion.
well done gwava.
hey bro.
what i wouldn’t give to be travelling along with you guys. could my honda 400 handle the terrain? if so next time can i come along?
what a hell of a trip. but sure it was worth every km. thanks for making that part of dusty sa come alive to those of us that are lazing in town!
GLAD YOU GAVE THOSE BEER BOEPED HARLEY GUYS A FACE FULL OF DUST. WISH I COULD HAVE SEEN THEIR FACES. LOOKING FORWARD TO PART TWO. WILL THE KID STILL BE ON THE BACK OF YOUR BIKE OR WILL YOU GIVE SOMEONE ELSE THE HONOUR OF HAVING A PASSANGER?
Brrrrm, Brrrrrm, off into the badlands now - will mail you guys more gonzo dust and dumpies this afternoon.
Hey Gwav, nice one. Check out any potential surf spots along the way. See you back in the Kowie.
Hey my Brother.
You are so busy travelling in the Transkei what about a trip to Lesotho, my home country? We need some tourists. Thanks for all the information on an area I have never been to.
would love to see a pic of you and your ’spaghetti-limbed passenger’ in action…
beautiful part of the country and to be sharing it with your son, very special memories
Thaebo my man, doing a trip through Lesotho would be absolutely epic. I hear there is even a community living in caves in a mountain near Maseru. I think a motorcycle diaries there would be tip top. If I ever plan to go I will get hold of u. Chilling at Mpantsane as we speak surrounded by kids goggling my confuser.
Had to ride up three mountains on my bike just to get a signal. So, here I sits in paradise chilling out and writing. Staying in a hut tonight, bully beeef and tinned peas for supper - cos I was to late to dive a few bugs. More tommorrow.
Gwav
Geeza.
Those Mapatzana children must yhink you are a mad man! driving to the top of random hills to play or show off your mobile television.
Have a safe trip.. Think I need to upgrade my scoot to a tourer.
Say is that vintage machine all the collectors rate ot to be?
And whats this about eating bugs? surely not! you must get a good few flying in to your mouth on those remote dusty rodes.
Dyly, you’re right my bru, I ate more bugs on the road than I did from the see. People kept thinking I had the flu cos of all the dust in my snoz.
My Tenere is my baby and it is much more than what people said. 25 years old and the baby never missed a beat. Trade in your scoot and get a real bike.
Ja, the okes thought I had a tv every time I pulled the lap top out…as Wally onetime says: Life without adventure is no life at all…
looks like heaven and hell,, to all those who ride the dirt roads
this is what i come to realise,,,
the faster you go,,,the safer you are the safer you are the harder
you fall
best regards
george k
George, you are right about the faster you go the harder you fall…
If you go slow and lose momentum, then you fall too. Dropped the bike once, going very slow in a rut with my two kids (Cubes and
Kye) while riding in Ebalawu in the Kei. 1000 km, one wipeout - good going…no injuries. wow. Keen to go and do it all again. Thanks for all the support…
Any chance of the “All Blacks” pulling into a couple of barrels at J-Bay, Seals or St Francis? The surf cooks that side. Bongs, I can see you getting slotted silly at Supers - “emancipate yourself from mental slavery” and go for a surf lesson in JBay. Could make a great story.
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